Since her debut spring/summer 2018 collection, Natacha Ramsay-Levi has quietly gone about evolving the Chloé woman’s sweet sensibilities to give her feminine wardrobe a harder, sharper edge. Ramsay-Levi’s Chloé is all about undercutting the whimsy with cut-out glossed leather ankle boots and heavily buckled bags. It’s simultaneously bohemian, retro, French and carefree – in short, the woman everyone wants to be.
“What’s interesting about French femininity – although I don’t know if it’s that feminine – is the idea of contradiction: you take something and make it something else,” Ramsay-Levi told Vogue after her autumn/winter 2018 presentation. Her ability to harness this unattainable insouciance has earned her a keen following, particularly on e-tail giant Net-a-Porter.com, for which Ramsay-Levi has just designed a capsule collection.
There are Rylee boots and Tess bags – the accessories that have already garnered cult status under Ramsay-Levi – aplenty in the 27-piece edit to satisfy demand from the Net-a-porter.com customer. Chloé shoe sales on the e-tail platform have doubled since last year, half of which are driven by boots, and the Tess has become a bestseller globally, with the burgundy bag style a sell out.
“The response has been extremely positive,” Net-a-porter.com global buying director Elizabeth von der Goltz tells Vogue. “The new direction that Natacha Ramsay-Levi has brought to the collections has felt modern and contemporary, which has resulted in a striking urban edge. I think Chloé used to be known for its occasion and vacation dressing, but now it’s speaking to the Chloé girl for all parts of her everyday life, in particular, dresses and separates, which is something that the brand does incredibly well.”
Net-a-porter.com’s brief to Ramsay-Levi was to focus on this “urban” path. “We vision Natacha as a unique, independent Parisian woman,” von der Goltz continues. “We wanted it to fully incorporate her fresh point of view on the brand, such as the great tailoring and key menswear fabrics. It’s what we like to call ‘city’.”